Instant Boats Message Boards

Hi Doug,

Great to here that you had a great day with the Brick! (Weekends need to be fun!) Thoughts...

* First, I am completely at a loss as to how solving the great 52 degree dilemma was solved by cutting at 38 degrees. (Remember it was I who suggested trying cutting at 38 degrees, and BoatManPaul corrected me and said to make that work you'd have to cut the board at 38 but with the board being fed through the saw on the vertical (tricky).) I tested, and sure enough BMP was right on. (I've got the scrap right beside me as I type this.) My only other solution was to cut at 45 degrees and hand plane to 52 degrees. (And that's a fairly easy task.) You might want to look at that transom again and make sure that the bottom will lie flat.

* Most people will tell you not to fear a power tool, but instead to have a healthy respect. Truth be told, I still do have a little bit of fear and a ton of respect! It doesn't help any that some of these TV woodworking "experts" do some profoundly dumb stuff. Today in fact, I watched one of the gurus reach around a spinning shaper cutter letting his hand get way to close to the cutter. I wonder how many times he's been in an emergency room? For any tool, read and understand the safety manual, play it safe, work bone sober, go slow, wear eye protection, keep the tool sharp and in good repair, and use common sense. Even a handsaw can take off a finger before you know what happened. (Did you know that fastest amputation of a limb in the pre-anesthetic era was 33 seconds? Unfortunately, the operation was marred by the fact that the doctor accidentally amputated three of his own assistant's fingers in the procedure. And that was using a manual saw.)

* I'd go real slow with the motor and see how the boat handles (when the time comes).

* PFD? Absolutely! I even wear one when clamming out on the mud flats. (More than one quohogger has drowned simply by accidentally filling his hip boots.)

* Here's the Nymph we built...


Alan

Hi Alan,

I am not sure, my Uncle the retired Dow engineer suggested that I set the blade to 38 degrees and cut the transom as shown in the pics. His big thing was that the kerf would eat a little wood and if the saw was set at 38 then something was going to come up a bit short due to the width of the blade, that you could not get 52+38 exactly, I might have to go shy or fat to get my 52 degree bottom transom bevel depending on manufacturer, fengh shui, etc. etc.

He is the same guy who lost a couple of fingers in an unfortunate kickback a couple of years ago so of course I got another safety lecture on top of all the reading. Can't know too much about how not to hurt yourself AFIAC.

I tried with a piece of the chine lumber glued to a ply scrap and it looked good, did another with equally encouraging results, so I got frisky set the fence, measured a couple of times and made the cut. This was my first time cutting bevels with a table saw and only about the third time that saw has been used. I made two practice cuts of all the bevels, but may discard the rear transom in favor of a solid board. An angler who has registered a home made boat or two hereabouts thought it would be more likely to get registered with a solid rear transom.

It does seem to line up with the bottom of the sides on the bow end, my plastic amazing Home Depot angle measuring thingy puts it right about 52.... Maybe I can post a pic of that.

After sober deliberation, am going to use the fore and aft plank thwart until satisfied the boat is pondworthy and to verify COG issues.

Thinking on using 1x12 for the rear transom. Don't worry, if a motor goes on testing will be extremely gentle in a controlled environment, with a rescue tender manned by a young adult volunteer. I have a Marine for a son, and a kid out here at the Air Base is like an adopted son. Sometimes it can be good to have a frisky youngster about.

The day my son turned 18, I congratulated him on not having to do forced child labor anymore then welcomed him to the world of young adult volunteerism.

That is one pretty looking Nymph there. When I grow up my boats will be that pretty. Should be able to get the bottom on today, then will make a determination on whether to go forward, or have a bonfire and start over. Don't think there's anything wrong a little epoxy, bondo, and prohibited language can't fix.

Well, I need to put in a call to my 70 y/o hyperactive surrogate father and see if I can't draft him for a board holder, boat flipper over helper guy today. Might have to use the grill and some burgers for volunteer bait. Looks like a full day, pics tonight.

Hi Doug,

Sounds like a plan. (Not the bonfire!) BTW... When you ripped the bottom frame of the 52 degree transom, did you have the rip fence on the side of the blade away from the 38 degree tilt of the blade?

Keep us posted!

Alan

Hi Alan,

Given my preschool understanding of carpentry, geometry, and so on, I think the answer is yes to your question on the orientation of the transom when cutting.


Well, burning daylight and today is "fix things before we can put the bottom day". Must run for now.

Hi Doug,

Can't wait to hear how it goes!

Alan

The sides and transoms are attached, bottom is screwed and glued at the stern - weighted down to take the curve before attaching the rest. After the longbow that I made, it just made sense to me to bend the wood first so it wont be trying to pull itself apart against the screws while the glue cures.

Hi Doug,

Sounds like you're moving right along...

Alan

Hi Doug,

I just wondered by and saw your posting's.

Looks like you are making great progress in building your Brick!

Don't underestimate the sailing ability of the Brick. Many people have built them and have enjoyed them very much.

One thing that I read that I wondered about is why you felt the Brick's transom as designed, wasn't strong enough for a trolling motor? If anything, I believe just adding a piece of 3/4-inch plywood to the center of the transom would strengthen it more than enough for a trolling motor or maybe even a 1-1/2 or 2 HP outboard.

Remember that someday you will want, and may have to, carry the Brick somewhere and those extra pounds can sure make a boat heavy very fast!

Keep up the good work...you are doing a great job!

Howdy Bill,

Thanks for stopping by. Not really concerned about the motor bearing strength of the transom as overall rigidity. Now most of the folks who mention that in the reading I have done are associated with the modified PDR and are trying to sail fast enough to get on plane. The other thing they muse over is the strength of the bow and how the forces of sailing put pressure on those joints.

My brick is intended to be a slow moving Men's Bass Boat ( M.B.B. as opposed to the ones by fishing buddies pilot with the motors and cushioned seats and sparkle paint ) and great nephew transporter. I do want a sail on her, but would consider four knots all the speed i would ever want on a pond. These operators do strange things afloat on our ponds, most of them entirely ignorant of navigation, courtesy, basic physics, and of course my personal favorite, safety.

I have been "hiked out" on a fourteen foot Hobie Cat, a 21' sloop out of Hyannisport, and too many tiny sailfish and sunfish to recall. Not really what I am looking for in this brick. Most of the time, my inflatable kayak will still be my ride as it's always in the trunk unless specifically removed. The brick is for days when I know it's time to fish. If she works out well, an itty bitty sail and perchance a motor. ( of the tiniest stripe, or a Li-ion 2.2 hp torqueedo if finances allow)

Cut the stern transom a wee bit short and put some ripped 1x2 on it which makes it a bunch stiffer, the boat is plenty light without glass, fillet, and paint. The seating boards and gunwales I am envisioning would add weight and I have sat and pondered those same thoughts. My inflatable is the "go to girl" when I know there is a portage, but the kayak design has it's limits especially in comfort over a long day. To the basic hull, I want to add 6 2x4x8' boards. That's a bunch of weight, so I flip the mental coin back and fourth......

My thinking is that if she has some of the strength to make a good racing/sailor she will do what I want her to do long after I have returned to port. If I can beef her up just a tad but still manage to get her on and off the luggage rack I am gonna call that success.

Hi Doug,

Here are a couple of sources that might give you some ideas about making the loading of your Brick a little easier.

First a video to watch. Then check to see other boat loading videos on same page,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t25X9F08Np4

Then go to the near bottom of this web site to view an old method of loading a small boat on the top of a car.

http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/Proj ... Chap17.htm

Thes loading aids can be made with a few 2 x 4's and some bolts.

The easier the Brick is to load...the more you are likely to use it!

Good luck,

Thanks Bill!

The wife and I have one of these: http://www.boatersworld.com/product/368220026.htm for moving the boat around, but we've always wondered about finding a way that she can singlehand the kayak onto the roof of the car...

Why do I have this strange feeling that I have another project ahead of me?

Thanks again!

P.S.
(and then there are the motorized versions... :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGqt04oAPak
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJ1WxVHPlvQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vY0Ctd-mqs4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kRE8TvYGmQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ga_jEc42M
)

Egads!!! those contraptions seem to make you talk funny. Then there's that one where it takes four guys and the doohickie to get the poor boat on the roof. PLUS, they are are all metal boats that you could drag behind the car if you had to!!!

I only live about two miles from my fishing pond, heck with one of those metal boats I could just tie a rope to it and go slow......

The bottom has taken a nice curve, yesterday we put some clamps on the side to bottom junction trying to get those rubbery sides to the shape we need to hold the bottom reasonably square. If feng shui is right, will glue bottom down today and cut side rails and seating.

The previous property owner left me so much scrap lumber that all I have in the boat ATM is plywood and glue. It doesn't really start to cost anything until the resin goes on.

I do like that dolly. One of my favorite waters is a skinny creek between two well known ponds. It requires a men's boat ( canoe or kayak ) due to draft and portage requirements. If I could make that trip with the brick would be overjoyed. Because there is no easy boat access, it's almost always universally deserted.


With low fishing pressure and privacy, it's a prime spot to spend a day and worth the mile or so paddle to get to the entrance. The weight of the brick with no paint or side rails has got my attention. Don't know if she can be made light enough for those portages. There may be some realms that my inflatable will always own.

Between the tortoise and the superbrick this design seems to have a lot to offer. With all the trouble I am having with this one, maybe better do the tortoise next.....

Hi Doug,

As for the dolly... The wife and I have the wheel-a-weigh (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/368220026.htm)... Looks like it's rated for at least 150 lbs. We occasionally use ours... We even used it with our 16' "Sweet Pea" peapod with no problem. Once you get the boat properly balanced, moving it is pretty easy. I'd imagine that you could make your own using 2 x 4s and wheel barrow wheels (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&Ne=4294967294&category=Wheels+and+Tires&N=4294950263&cm_mmc=search_google-_-Outdoor%20Power%20Equipment-_-Tire%20Care-_-wheelbarrow%20tires&semsite=google&sembrand=n&semcatg=Outdoor+Power+Equipment&semsubcatg=Tire+Care&semkeyword=wheelbarrow+tires).

Alan

Or you could make some removable wheels like I did for my Tortoise.













Or maybe not.......

Hey Wild Bill,

I'm loving your solution! That puts a smile on my face. Good job!

Alan